isn't that expected? wrote:
I've never really heard the "upside down" terminology used with respect to car loans. Don't you kind of expect to be upside down on a car loan? The value of a new car plummets as soon as you drive it off the lot, so you are necessarily going to be upside down from day one if your loan was for a substantial portion of the selling price.
Not exactly expected. The bigger risk/irresponsibility as posted in the title of this thread is trading in a car you are upside down on. In this case if you can’t pay off the difference the bank will roll the amount you still owe on a car now owned by the dealership into the next loan. This can have a snowballing effect and at the very least means you’re paying even higher payments than the new car is worth and paying higher interest than you reasonably should.
However, while a lot of people are upside down early in a car loan due to depreciation, there is still some risk in that. If your car gets totaled your insurance company pays out what the car is worth, not what you owe. So, you could end up owing money on a car that is wrecked. Not ideal if you weren’t careful from the start. There are several ways to combat this:
A.) Pay a large enough down payment so that you are never upside down on the loan – even from the start. You can still borrow some money to take advantage of low interest rates but avoid the “surprise†factor of a car crash ending up even more unfortunate for you financially.
B.) Have the difference between the loan amount and vehicle value saved in an emergency fund or somewhere else accessible in case the above happens. Like a reverse down payment. The advantage is you can have your money make you money, the disadvantage is it can sting more after a crash to spend that money than on the day you drive the car home.
C.) Only buy cars with shorter loan terms. That way you get right side up sooner or the upside down amount is smaller. Banks will offer 7 & 8 year loans on a car now. The amount of time your upside down increases, the amount of time between when you’re bored of a car or your needs have changed but it’s a financially poor decision to get rid of it can increase. Better to live within your means with less car than stretch the loan for what you want but can’t afford in the near term.
D.) Pay for gap insurance. This will add additional cost to your monthly payment for the same car, but covers the “gap†between what your car is worth and what you owe the bank in the event of an accident. Increasing your monthly payment without getting more car is functionally the same as a higher interest rate in my opinion, so it brings into question if you’re still “taking advantage of low interest ratesâ€. Certainly not taking advantage of as low interest rates.
I chose A.) and C.) for my car. Bought last year, KBB says it’s worth $16,500 but I only owe $11,500 and it’ll be paid off in 18 months. So it’s highly unlikely I will ever be upsidedown on this loan, and wasn’t from the start. I also have B.) available in a general purpose emergency fund, but it’s not necessary for this purchase.
The biggest thing is just don't roll over old car payments into a new car loan, like apparently 32% of people are doing now. That gets dangerous, especially with really long loans.