Anyone here drive a BMW? Is it worth it?

BMW is a great car. Definitely much better in terms of aesthetics and design than Mercedes, Jag, and Volvo. The new 6 series is soooo slick. The 7 series is a bit of a gamble. Every now and then, BMW makes a 7 series that is just a flat out lemon. Electronics have been an issue. BMW's engine can be prone to cascading failures. It is a much higher performance engine than people think they have under the hood. Once it takes on significant repairs, it can sometimes never be the same. Mercedes and Volvo are a bit ahead of BMW in reliability, but not that much.

Whatever you do, do not buy a used BMW. There is no worse deal in the automotive world than a used luxury import right now. Everyone wants to drive a BMW so they can look like they are successful, but most can only afford a Camry. So, they think that a pre-owned is the way to go. There are not enough vehicles to go around and dealerships get a big premium on these vehicles (mark up from trade/wholesale can be $3-5,000 on pre-owned BMWs). The value of a BMW does not decline much from 0 miles to 50k. But it drops like a stone from 50k to 100k. Buy new or don't buy at all.

really? I just poked around.

New 335: $55,000

2010 335: $28,000

pls explain how the new car is the better deal.

Or buy in the 50k-100k mile range, at a major discount, knowing full well that all the major maintenance items will need addressed between about 85-110k miles. (Vanos units, valve adjustments, belts, tensioners, sensors, wheel bearings, etc)

Q: How do you tell the difference between a porcupine and a BMW?

A: A porcupine has pricks on the outside.

Keep in mind that they're targets for vandalism. In fact, the other day I saw one in a parking lot that had a dick spray-painted on it.

Everyone passing by had the same comment: "That's the first time I've seen one of those on the *outside* of a BMW".

bro science wrote:

If you DIY, they are a piece of cake.

Example: Replacing crank position sensor on an M3 might cost $4-500 at the stealership. You can get the same part online for $50-75 and install it yourself in about 2-3 hrs.

Not to mention you can basically fix every single thing on a BMW with the following tools:

Ratchet with 10, 13, and 17mm sockets

Phillps head

Flat head

Inverted torx set

Hammer/mallet

If this is true, you may have just convinced me to buy a BMW.

This is fairly true, especially of the older (i.e. E46) models. Lots of great DIY instructions out there that make it really easy.

vivalarepublica wrote:

bro science wrote:

If you DIY, they are a piece of cake.

Example: Replacing crank position sensor on an M3 might cost $4-500 at the stealership. You can get the same part online for $50-75 and install it yourself in about 2-3 hrs.

Not to mention you can basically fix every single thing on a BMW with the following tools:

Ratchet with 10, 13, and 17mm sockets

Phillps head

Flat head

Inverted torx set

Hammer/mallet

If this is true, you may have just convinced me to buy a BMW.

vivalarepublica wrote:

bro science wrote:

If you DIY, they are a piece of cake.

Example: Replacing crank position sensor on an M3 might cost $4-500 at the stealership. You can get the same part online for $50-75 and install it yourself in about 2-3 hrs.

Not to mention you can basically fix every single thing on a BMW with the following tools:

Ratchet with 10, 13, and 17mm sockets

Phillps head

Flat head

Inverted torx set

Hammer/mallet

If this is true, you may have just convinced me to buy a BMW.

Obviously not every single repair can be made with those tools, but most that you could tackle yourself can be. Especially on the older ones. You have to remember that until the mid 90s some BMWs were still being assembled by hand. The only tools I've had to buy specifically for either a Volvo or BMW are the torx bits and a few socket extensions.

MPow3r wrote:

This is fairly true, especially of the older (i.e. E46) models. Lots of great DIY instructions out there that make it really easy.

vivalarepublica wrote:

If this is true, you may have just convinced me to buy a BMW.

I had an E39 for several years and most repairs are fairly simple with the tools above. I did replace the front suspension (and that needed a bit more effort) but it was not rocket science. Invest in a Bently repair manual and a diagnostic tool.

There's something to be said about taking an interstate exit at 70mph...this 540i handled like it was on rails.

I would buy Audi over Volvo any day.

Axcrederety wrote:

I would buy Audi over Volvo any day.

Audi's are money pits. Volvo's are less so. Assuming you get an audi turbo, the turbo will inevitably fail, and you will be stuck replacing it (or them, if you get a twin turbo model), to the tune of about $3-5k. Moreover, these are timing belt engines that WILL fail, if not changed. This is probably another multi thousand dollar job.

$.02 wrote:

I do. Great handling, style, feel, acceleration. Everyone on the road will be envious of you. Girl's panties drop instantly when they see me pull up in a BMW.

They need better fitting panties or none at all.

Only problem with BMWs is that the turn signals never work on them, especially the ones driven in the DC area.

My turbo has been fine. You change your belt when you are supposed to and there won't be a problem. You sound like the kind of guy who won't have sex because you might sweat.

bro science wrote:

Axcrederety wrote:

I would buy Audi over Volvo any day.

Audi's are money pits. Volvo's are less so. Assuming you get an audi turbo, the turbo will inevitably fail, and you will be stuck replacing it (or them, if you get a twin turbo model), to the tune of about $3-5k. Moreover, these are timing belt engines that WILL fail, if not changed. This is probably another multi thousand dollar job.

Volvos definitely are not money pits. Not sure where you are getting that from.

The new car is nicer and reliable and not ready for any repairs.

Just drive it, put gas in it and change the oil.

That cheaper car won't look as nice for starters.

But word is that it will need repairs and they won't be cheap. And you have to deal with time in the shop.

BMW's should be gotten new and leased for three years.

You'll always be happy and not be in the shop.

The cost is not much more because you only pay for half the price, the period that you have it.

If you finance a used BMW, you're looking at similar payments for three years. Then it's yours but it's 6 or 7 years old by them with expensive problems and down time ahead.

And the idea of having a BMW is having a nice car.

So why drive an older one?

If money is the reason then don't drive a BMW, get a plain car.

Axcrederety wrote:

I would buy Audi over Volvo any day.

You're entitled to your opinion, but you should know you're missing out.

I've had 3.

Loved the cars until about 10 years ago. Great drive shaft, and they handle like a dream. They newer models are having trouble with the "brain". The computer components seem to fail frequently and they are always an expensive fix. I lucked out and mine all failed under warranty but had friends who weren't so lucky. The BMW motorcycles are the same way any more. I've been driving Acura's lately and I've loved both of mine. All I did was put gas in them change the oil when the car told me to and drive.

You're better off driving an Audi A6 or Jag XF unless you decide to get an M series BMW. BMW 3 series are a dime in a dozen.