Climbing in California

Before anyone says it, I know it's not letsclimb here.

If you hike Whitney anytime before the end of June you're going to be going hiking through a good bit of snow. It's been a big snow year in the Sierra this winter.

You have to get a permit to hike Whitney and virtually all of those are gone from the summer since the lottery for those was in February. But if you drive to Lone Pine and go by the ranger's office, you might be able to pick up an unused permit from someone who is a no-show. (That happens almost every day.)

Read up on Mt Whitney and all the web pages from the Inyo National Forest about hiking it. Also read about the effects of altitude if you haven't hiked about 10,000' before. Whitney is a very simple straightforward hike for a 14er, but still people do stupid things and get hurt.

Shasta is a whole other ballgame. Gotta have crampons, ice-axe, and a helmet (falling scree). Shasta has only about a 40% success rate (even by experienced climbers) because the weather can change so quickly since it's further north and isolated. If you've never done any hiking on snow and ice, it'd be wise to guy with a guide service up Shasta. Read the online accident reports for Mt Shasta and you'll realize how easy it is to die on that mtn. Also, beware of those fumaroles.

Big state, lots of options ... but these are probably the big three of CA climbing.

Joshua Tree for excellent trad climbing ... getting warm but still workable for your trip.

Bishop: outstanding for bouldering and alpine routes.

Yosemite Valley, of course. Not too crowded yet, but the weather will be fickle.

Lover's Leap is also a fantastic option ... High Sierras, Nor Cal crags, etc.

I wouldn't do Shasta alone but it's doable. But, Shasta and Whitney are 2 very different mountains. Whitney has a well-marked trail that is mostly dirt in the summer. For most the year, Shasta requires crampons and and ice ax. The main route up shasta is fairly well-used so route finding isn't that hard. however, if you don't pay attention on the decent, you can find yourself in the middle of nowhere.

I don't think it's smart to do any of this stuff by yourself. That being said, early june is a popular time to climb so there will probably be lots of people on the route if you do it on a weekend. since there is still snow. it's a bear on the rock later in the summer.

I wouldn't do Shasta alone but it's doable. But, Shasta and Whitney are 2 very different mountains. Whitney has a well-marked trail that is mostly dirt in the summer. For most the year, Shasta requires crampons and and ice ax. The main route up shasta is fairly well-used so route finding isn't that hard. however, if you don't pay attention on the decent, you can find yourself in the middle of nowhere.

I don't think it's smart to do any of this stuff by yourself. That being said, early june is a popular time to climb so there will probably be lots of people on the route if you do it on a weekend. since there is still snow. it's not much fun on the rock later in the summer.

Whitney is a long hike (11 miles?) to the top of a 14000+ ft mountain. Unless you can sleep easily at high altitudes you are better off doing it in one day. Mt shasta is like walking up a staircase that is 2-3 miles long. It is easier to do when there is snow (with crampons). During a dry year much of the hike is on loose shale and and it is a real challenge as you slide back with each step. I walked up shasta 3 times 30-35 years ago, hiked up whitney 4 years ago. The altitude is uncomfortable for a flatlander like me. Most days during the summer you are not going to be alone. Both are doable in 1 day (and i am no great athlete by any means)

Thanks for the responses. I have experience with snow travel and techniques but not glaciers and I haven't done anything over 13,000 feet. I wouldn't try to push it if conditions are bad. Maybe I'll go with a guide. I think I'm pretty fit now.

I had been thinking that if there are a lot of people on the mountains that I could just follow the trail of others or try to make friends. I guess in that case it wouldn't really be solo.

if you are a competent climber, shasta and whitney mtneers route are fine solo. I mean no one ropes up so really climbing with a partner is just for laughs, or if you are not competent alone. Just remember that if you break an ankle you will be looking at 20-30 hours of crawling if no one is around.

If you are an ok rock climber there are some super fun classics in the valley that aren't that hard. Just amazing fun multi pitvh routes. Royal arches and snake dike come to mind.

Gotta go to Bishop. World class bouldering.