Question for Nike Sportwatch GPS Users

You can toggle between ave pace and instantaneous pace (as well as other figures) while you run. The final ave pace doesn't seem terribly accurate as I've done the math for my pace and its always slower than what the watch displays. The instant pace also seems a bit fast.

I tested it out at a local 10k and it showed up as running 6.26 miles (pretty dead-on) in 33:35 but telling me 5:21 ave pace instead of ~5:24.

Depending on the Garmin, you can set it to display the pace you want to see.

Currently, you are always going to have data issues with GPS. Whether it is a bit slow or just plain wrong, there are issues with GPS.

Personally, I use it as a general guide.

probably used old gamin, buy some of the new ones and enjoy ;)

I'm thinkining maybe I should look at a Garmin as well.

I saw a deal on the Garmin 110. Would this better than the Nike Sportwatch?

Here's a few reviews. I like this guy's stuff.

Nike GPS

http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2011/04/nike-sportwatch-gps-in-depth-review.html

Garmin 110

http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2010/07/garmin-forerunner-110-in-depth-product.html

I use the 210

http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2010/12/garmin-forerunner-210-in-depth-review.html

From what I recall, the 110 and 210 are the same except the 210 gives you "Current Pace".

I recently had an opportunity to purchase the Nike GPS for a fraction of the cost. I could have used the credit for something else, like shoes, but decided to give the watch a try despite mixed on-line reviews. I haven't tried the pace features, but the watch has been measuring runs to the exact distances that I got when using a Garmin 305.

My only complaint is that it sometimes takes a while to get linked to the satellite. When it's dark and cold out, I don't have a lot of patience to wait for the link. I've certainly waited a few minutes at times, but then just use the stopwatch feature and I don't worry about measuring the distance (which I managed to do for 35 years of running!). I'm not sure why, but this problem has only occurred in the morning when it's still dark out. I wouldn't think the amount of light should matter and some mornings the link has occurred within 30-60 seconds.

Thanks for the info.

How is the 110/210 in terms of size? I've tried on a Garmin 405 and that wouldn't pass as a regular watch. I currently wear a nike triax watch.

I looked at some online images and the Triax looks like its about the same thickness as the 210.

My wrists are about 7" around and I think the 210 feels fine as an everyday watch.

Can you get to a local store and see a 210 in person?

redux, thanks for the info. My wrist is just short of 7" as well. Do you have trouble getting the cuff of a shirt over your Garmin. I heard from someone with a 405 who said it doesn't fit under the cuff of there sleeve on a button up shirt.

You can toggle between ave pace and instantaneous pace (as well as other figures) while you run. The final ave pace doesn't seem terribly accurate as I've done the math for my pace and its always slower than what the watch displays. The instant pace also seems a bit fast.

I tested it out at a local 10k and it showed up as running 6.26 miles (pretty dead-on) in 33:35 but telling me 5:21 ave pace instead of ~5:24.

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You realize that the pace given is for the 6.26 distance. You calculated the slower pace with the assumption the course is actually 6.20.

I just let my 210 hide under the cuff when I'm wearing long sleeve dress shirts in the office.

Usually I'm the guy wearing khakis, top siders, and short sleeve plaid button ups so it doesn't bother me :)

I'm looking at getting this one too:

http://amzn.to/ACLhkI

Are there any deals out there right now for it?

I've had the Nike watch since October. My original had a problem downloading to the computer after a few months and I just received a replacement under warrentee. From what I've seen, having a failure this early isn't typical.

The distance measured seems reasonable. On a measured straight rail trail that I run regularly, it's reliably pretty close to dead on. I did a long paced workout on the track last weekend and it over measured the distance by about 2%. I think that's typical for GPS watches.

There are a few things about the watch that detract from its use. It displays a "main parameter" which can only be changed from the configuration utility when the watch is attached to a computer, you can't change this on the watch by itself. Likewise if you want to set up an interval routine this can only be done with a computer. The "second parameter" field is selected via a rocker button on the side of the watch that scrolls through the list. The configuration utility lets you choose what items are on the list.

The backlight is activated by slapping the watch, that is, there is an accelerometer in the watch so you're not actually pushing a button. The up side of this is that it's easy to do if you're wearing gloves or some such. If the watch is in a manual split mode, the same mechanism is used to record split times. The down side here is that you can't see the watch in the dark without recording a split which can be frustrating. It's also possible to accidentally record a split if you jar the watch and there is no user accessible sensitivity adjustment.

The biggest issue with the watch is that the only utility available to off load and analyze data recorded by the watch is the NikePlus web site. The impression I get of the web site is that it is designed by a bunch of graphic artists who have no interest in presenting any meaningful data. So when the painfully slow flash crap finally loads you're presented, for instance, with a animated runner leaving behind a "smoothed" time versus pace graph that seemingly has little to do with the workout that was run. They also didn't bother to label the axis, so even if the curve fit weren't bogus you still wouldn't be able to figure out your pace at any particular point in the run. The heartrate graph, at least, has sliders that allow you to measure points, but the resolution is poor. Finally you can get a plot of your route on a map which works well enough, but I usually already know where I went.

I don't have any hands-on experience with Garmin Connect, or whatever their toolset is called, but it can't possibly be as bad as Nike's. For that reason alone I'd steer you to the Garmin product.