Bad Wigins wrote:
I have plenty of experience both in mountains...
Sorry, but no you don't. Nobody with "plenty of mountain experience" would have posted this:
"Just how low did the temperature get? Hypothermia takes a while, especially if you're warmed up and moving. And if the weather hit an 11k high altitude stretch, then it's at worst 5.5k from safety in one direction or the other."
It's "at worst" disorientation and complete loss of judgment. It's "at worst", death.
I would venture that you have zero experience above 10,000' other than driving a car up some Colorado peak in fair weather. I have been socked in, prepared, for 2 days in a bivy while over 10' of snow fell. The ridge was maybe 250' away. It would have been suicide to have attempted it. When we dug out we made for the ridge because we had prepared our route and thinking in the event that avalanche was a danger, which it was. It took us 3 hours to gear up, traverse maybe 150' to avoid a huge cornice we didn't expect, and climb that remaining 250'.
And we were lucky. Things could easily have gone south with more exposure, wind changing direction, cornice letting loose, gear failure, inadequacy of gear/technique especially on the very technical traverse, etc. You never know exactly what conditions you will get, and you can't train for them all.
Made the ridge, and the other side had only trivial wet snow coverage, almost no wind at all, and we scrambled down as planned for one of our alternates. It can be that fine a line. Preparation, knowledge, and knowing when to call it quits are critical. Even seasoned alpinists make fatal mistakes. One of the former rescue alpinists in our area in France just died in an area in which he had been literally hundreds of times.