Kaptagat
“Jambo!” The friendly face of Franklin beamed at me as I exited Arrivals at Nairobi International Airport. We left towards Spring Valley and he started teaching me my first words of Swahili. We drove past some zebras just outside the airport, grazing in the fading light of the Kenyan dusk. I couldn’t wipe the grin off of my face.
My decision to visit Kenya was a last minute one, my European travel plans diverted as Matt invited me to join him in documenting Eliud’s preparation for Berlin. An opportunity to spend time in Kenya with some of the best runners in the world was not one I could turn down. The spontaneity of the trip meant I was completely uninformed on what to expect in Kenya. Everything I was seeing and experiencing was a curiosity.
The next morning, I returned to Nairobi airport to board a flight to join Matt in the west of the country. The short flight went smoothly, as we travelled over fields transitioning to savannah, and eventually the outskirts of the city of Eldoret. Kenya’s fifth largest city – with a population of around 300,000 – Eldoret is situated in the highlands of western Kenya, around 2100 meters above sea level. Downtown is busy, with traders selling their wares on the streets and bus-boys touting their routes to potential passengers. To uninitiated Westerners it all seemed a bit hectic and disorderly, but it rapidly became more normal, and by the end of our time in Kenya we knew to expect and accept the unexpected.
Kenya is a renowned hub for distance runners, and the vast majority of the nation’s world- class performers come from the western highlands, living and training in Eldoret and a series of small towns in the surrounding area: a high plateau bordering the Rift Valley. A quick drive out of the city, through a series of small villages, brought us to our destination – Kaptagat. Here we found our way to our accommodation for the month in Kaptagat Farm Stay.
Surrounded by fertile fields of maize threaded by a network of ochre-red dirt roads, Kaptagat appears to be no more than a small collection of houses with a couple of general stores. However, the humble appearance of the village belies the fact it plays host to the gruelling training of some of the world’s most impressive athletes.
As I said, the trip to Kenya was organised at the last minute and I had no idea what to expect upon arriving in the country. The whole premise of the trip – to document the training of Eliud and the athletes in Kaptagat area – came about based on the loose assertion, from one of the contacts Matt made whilst training with David Rudisha’s squad (800m world record holder), that if we arrived in Kaptagat with the intention of running, we would be welcomed by any and all of the squads in the area.
Hundreds of athletes come to Kaptagat and surrounding areas to try their luck at making it in long distance running; the depth of the talent in the area is phenomenal. Many of these athletes, despite running times that would rank them as top competitors in most countries, are not under management and struggle to eke out a living. Our accommodation was next to the Jobb Centre: a cluster of shops where locals bought vegetables and domestic supplies, and caught up with each other over a cup of porridge every evening. A group of such athletes were living adjacent to this area and, after inviting us to join their run the next day, gave us directions to the camp managed by Global Sports Management, where many of Eliud’s teammates were living.
Since the camp was only a couple of kilometres away, along the main road, we set off for an afternoon jog to acclimatise and see who we could meet there. After randomly running down several dirt roads in search of the camp, panting and struggling to maintain an easy pace due to the low levels of oxygen present at 2400 meters above sea level, a friendly local finally walked us there.
The gate of the compound was unassuming, a dirt path with ruts and puddles marking the route to the house where the squad was based. The house was quite small, and the only signs indicating that a group of athletes were there was the brightly coloured Nike equipment hanging out to dry.
Upon arriving unannounced, we were fortunate enough to be greeted by a few members of the squad who were relaxing following their second easy run of the day. They said that tomorrow, they would be doing their weekly long run, and invited us to join them. There was no sign of Eliud or any of the coaching or management staff, so we told the runners we would see them in the morning and started back towards the main road.
As we were approaching the gate a small white Toyota wagon pulled up and entered the driveway; as the vehicle approached we made out that it was Eliud inside! We became really excited as his arrival was very much unexpected. He pulled up beside us. After welcoming us to Kenya, to Kaptagat, and to the Global compound, he echoed the invitation for us to join the run the next morning: 6am sharp at the gate of the camp.
We realised that any attempt to keep pace with Eliud and the lead group would be a foolish one, as the run was going to be roughly 30km and we hadn’t yet acclimatised to the altitude. Although we weren’t sure what the pace would be, we assumed it would be very intense. With this in mind, we set out to source a motorbike in order to follow the session and collect some footage, as well as to time the splits that the group was running.
This proved to be no trouble at all. The first men we approached at the Jobb Centre were very excited about the prospect of US$5 in return for loaning out a motorbike for the morning. This was hardly surprising, considering many of the people we met in the area were subsistence farmers, and those who weren’t working their own land were often being paid US$1.5 for a full day of manual labour. In a manner we came to realise as being very typical of the Kenyan people, the men who delivered the bike to the farm-stay a couple hours later were very relaxed about the whole agreement, with no mention of any paperwork, identification or safety deposit.
After arranging our transportation for the following day, Matt and I settled in for a relaxed night, our first of many at Kaptagat Farm Stay.