The Kenyans mostly run very slow on their recovery runs, usually in the evening (around 5.40-6.00/km) but I got up early this morning to walk down the steep hill towards Tambach. I saw a few Kenyans doing progression runs, or finishing them, and many of these guys were flying, looked around 3.00-3.10 per km pace. Super impressive.
Saw one guy running up the hill towards viewpoint, super strong pace, around 3.45 -3.50 pace uphill.
For food and refreshments in Iten, I highly recommend OASIS LILYS HOTEL. It is basically a large dining area restaurant with a tin roof, large flat screen TV (ideal for watching Premier League or marathons) halfway up the hill leading to the Lornah Kiplagat camp. Good meals cooked without too much oil (unlike the Jamaica hotel in Iten, sorry) and very reasonable prices. This morning at 9am, after my 1.5hr walk, an order of beans, 2 chapatis and piping hot chai only diminished the bank balance by 130 shillings (1 euro). This meal was so substantial and voluminous that it is likely to sustain this aging/ageing ghost body until 6pm. Many star athletes eat or take tea there. The order of beans even included a partial boiled potato and some carrots mixed in. Not sure if this was largesse offered to a visiting peripatetic muzungo or par for the course.
Oasis Lilys Hotel: ph. zero seven two three four five six four zero six, and/or: zero seven two two seven three five three two seven.
It is open for meals until around 9pm, unlike many places which stop around 6pm.
Tea (20), chapati (30), porridge (30), pancakes (60), ugali/sukuma (50). Basically, you can eat like a King/Queen there for 100-200 shillings, 1-2 euros. Warren Buffet might have liked this place, as economical and decent quality.
Impressive: This afternoon at Lily's Oasis restaurant in Iten, a kid in school uniform (reminiscent of classic British school uniforms) who appeared around 10 years old came in and ordered a meal of ugali (maize) and Sukuma Wiki (similar to green spinach). I was impressed that a kid of that young age made the decision to order this healthy meal, when other, less healthy options, (chips and pancakes) were readily available. Can you imagine a kid in Europe or the U.S. ordering a meal of rice and spinach, or rice and lentils, for example? Not going to happen.,
I think it is ingrained into the Kenyan psyche to consider ugali the main staple in their diet. The Kenyans who race abroad often travel with ugali. These Kenyans claim that rice, bread and pasta are poor substitutes for ugali and leave them feeling hungry after a couple of hours.
Iten: The good fartlek sessions in Iten: Take the continuation of the road going through town Lornah's place, direction Nilotha Lodwa rd going to Kapsawar (excuse my spellings), head to the big signpost: KOMBASAGONG -KOBIL Rd. This is approx 3.5km from Cnt of ITEN. About 20 mins jog, perfect warmup. You will pass Betsy Saina's guesthouse on the left, at 1.6km. SOSIOT GUESTHOUSE.
KOMBASAGONG -KOBIL Rd groups meet there Tuesdays and Thursdays at 9am. Fartlek on Tuesdays - 20 times 1 minute fast, 1 recovery, Thursdays 17 times 2 mins with 1 minute recovery.
Kenya is good for weight loss. I have been here for one month and have seen a 3kg reduction in weight since my departure date. I am thinking that this is because of much more limited options in my diet here, and much less foods like cheese, etc. My "go to foods" in Kenya include chapatis, cabbage, sukuma wiki, and usually weetabix/milk in the evenings.
I have taken to buying my own teabags and simply asking for boiling water, because while the milky/sweet chai is delicious, I do not think it wise to over indulge in this sweet beverage. Milky/sugary tea is the default in Kenya. Few options exist.
I meet a lot of Kenyan wakalimu (farmers) in Elgeyo Marakwet, and most of them subsist on diets of ugali and green vegetables, with occasional eggs (once or twice a week), and meat (once or twice a month) thrown in. Forget cheese, and other foods we consider normal fare in the West. Met a 95 year old yesterday, sitting outside his shop near Lornah's. Seemed fine to me and still corpus mentis.
The economy in Kenya is not good, and gasoline prices have gone up. Hundreds/thousands of commuters can be seen every morning traveling 3-5km on foot to work or to their studies. Are they doing it for health? Not really, although that is a byproduct of the walking. Rather, the 30-50 bob boda boda fare is best saved for a plate of ugali (50). Most workers are on 300 -500 shillings per day. Cheap rentals are 2000 shillings per month. $1=115 shillings, approx.
Wifi access is not ubiquitous in Kenya, so everyone buys "bundles" for their phones. 50 bob, 100 bob, 250 bob. In my case 250 bob gives me 1.5gb for 7 days, sufficient.
Brother Colm, St Patricks Iten school, continues to be active in his coaching. At close to 80 years he trains his athletes by car on their training runs. He no longer does the long, hilly walk to Tambach, but still strolls around the compound morning and evening. Brendan Foster's brother, Bruce Tulloh, and other notables had done previous teaching stints at St Patricks, which was useful for the Irish/Kenyan honorary citizen (Brother O'Connell) because training manuals, and complete training plans were given as references. This was very useful for the diminutive (but strongly built) Irishman, because when he arrived in Kenya, he had little knowledge or training in Athletics.
Rhonex Kipruto is a very modest and unassuming champion, from St Patricks, Iten. The Mama at the local tuck shop, opposite the second school gates mentioned that Rhonex is completely modest and gives no attitude about his star status in running. In fact that could be said for the uncountable number of 59:00-1:01:00 half marathoners who reside in Iten. They are largely anonymous and unappreciated by the local population.
Height/Weight: 1.63cm/53kg (very similar height/weight to Kenny Bekele, as well as appearance).
Best times: 5000 - 13:48.99
10,000 - 28:38
10km - 28:42
15km - 46:14
Half marathon - 1:03:42
Coach: Hugo Van den Broek (former India National coach, and 2:12 marathoner).
Residence: Iten, Elgeyo Marakwet.
Sponsorship: He gets small assistance from the State of Gujarat. No shoe sponsorship despite being the National Indian Half Marathon record holder. Note: The 60:00 half marathon achieved by the famous Indian 8:18 steeplechaser was not ratified for record purposes. He survives in Iten, Kenya, on approx 20,000 shillings per month ($174). 7000 shillings for rent in Iten ($61). The remaining $100 go for food, phone bundles etc. In Iten $3 a day for food is enough, especially if cooking at home. $3 = 345 shillings.
Training: Off season -175-180km per week
In season: 150-155km per week.
Diet: His go to foods include Ugali (which took some getting used to, as Indians prefer spices), eggs, sukuma wiki, goat meat for protein. The two Indian restaurants in Eldoret are avoided, as too expensive.
Source/location of interview: Lilys Oasis hotel/restaurant, Friday May 6, 2022, 10.30-11am.
Telephone: zero seven two three four five six four zero six / and/or : zero seven two two seven three five three two seven.
Note: This delightful, courteous gentleman was somewhat busy, so we did not get the chance to discuss his training, speedwork in more depth, but if you follow Julien Wanders on Insta, you will often see this guy featured with that group.
Shoe companies. Please give this guy a shoe contract. He's the best overall distance runner in India, and has been living a monastic life in Iten, Elgeyo Marakwet, Kenya, for the past two years. Your minimal investment (3-6 pairs of shoes including two pairs of supershoes) will pay big dividends, not only for this individual, but also for India Athletics in general.
If you need a chemist in Iten, for example stomach problems, sunburn, cuts, infection, parasites etc., I recommend Mr Vincent Yego, Pharmacist. Location: Chemist HL, Health Lab. almost opposite the Iten District Hospital on the road which leads to Mindililwo Primary school. He's a very honest bloke and will only sell what is necessary. For example, he won't push antibiotics, except in rare cases.
Feeling sore after that fartlek session or long run in Iten? Recommended physiotherapist/masseur: Isaiah Kosgei, 48 year old (still fit) marathoner (2:12:00, plus multiple times 2:13:00). Very close to Lornah Kiplagat's camp, at the top of the hill, before the descent into Iten. You will see, on the left, a smallish hut which advertises his services. Phone: zero seven two four nine two eight eight five two.
Last week we discussed the incredible success of Kapsabet High school, where 100% of students qualified for university. The best in Kenya. Kapsabet High is the former almer mater of former President Daniel Moi, who was a student there from 1935-1942, Deputy President William Ruto is also a former student of Kapsabet.
Wazungo runners will find a well educated and welcoming populace in Kapsabet.
Meanwhile, this muzungo is heading to Kericho soon. Watch this space for updatws.
On another note, only about 17 percent of Africans have been vaccinated for Covid-19. Higher in Kenya though. Since my arrival in Nairobi, May 7, 2022, I have not worn a mask, even once. My locations in Kenya: Nairobi, Nakuru, Keroka, Kisii, Eldoret, Iten. Next - Kericho.
It is as if Covid-19 did not exist, at least outside Nairobi. In Nairobi, I think many, especially upper strata, tend to mimick the West with regard to Covid protocols. I think Kenyans have more pressing issues. Needless to say, the message from my health provider in France (via email), to get a 4th vaccine dose was not well received. We should move on.
On another note, we hope Marcel Jacobs, the Italian 100m champion, has recovered from the food poisoning he suffered. He was taken to the modest Uhai Neema Hospital for treatment, conveniently located close to the Kasarani stadium. The cost of treatment there was very low at only Sh1,000 ($8.70), including medicines! It is a Catholic Church hospital, which serves modest residents from the Ruaraka, Baba Dogo and Lucky Summer areas of Nairobi, a vast metropolis, with many econ.challenged areas. It costs just Sh1,700 ($14.78) for a consult which includes med.consult, X-ray, emergency admission and pharm
After Nakuru, Keroka, Eldoret, Iten, I have now moved to Kericho. It is not a bad place to live. It is a medium sized city with everything that you need. It is also safer than Eldoret which has a reputation for having some crime. There is a running camp here with several runners including the record holder for the marathon in France, La Rochelle, where he ran 208 a phenomenal time on that course which is worth around 206 on faster courses. There’s a Stadium right in the center of town with a tartan track for intervals. Plenty of decent places to eat. Most of the people here are Kalenjins, although you also find Kikuyus, Kisiis, and many Indians who seem to run all the supermarkets and hardware stores. Those guys really know how to do business and make money. Teamwork and dedication.
There are other good runners here but it is nowhere near as dense as Iten here.
If anyone needs the lowdown on Kenya and the best places to train and live, please send me a personal message via JS.
I was very surprised at the behavior of the people in Kericho. Very different to all the other places I have been to in Kenya including Iten, Elgeyo Marakwet. Everybody here is so quiet and self-contained and never asks me for anything unlike other areas of Kenya that I have visited. By the way, this is not a criticism of other areas of Kenya, but I’m just comparing.
The people here, in Kericho, are Kipsigis, a branch of the Kalenjin, but very different from the Kalenjin in Eldoret and Iten. These people remind me of Scandinavians in general. Very respectful, but they mind their own business.
It feels perfectly safe walking around town here even at night. Most of the time, I’m just politely ignored which is very different to other areas of Kenya that I visited. This is the only place in Kenya where children don’t constantly greet me with, “hello how are you?” and “Muzungu, Muzungu.” By the way, I’m not against those words from kids as I realize that it is just a habit that has become ingrained.
I found this on wiki, see below, which explains some of these markedly different cultural traits in Kericho.
The Kipsigis or Kipsigiis are a Nilotic tribe in Kenya. They are contingent of the Kalenjin ethnic group and speak Kipsigis language, a tonal language which is closely related to a group of languages collectively known as Kal...
