Climbing high altitude actually has more to do with weather windows than most know. You can have the greatest climbers like those on K2 in 86 but if the weather goes bad then the real sh*t hits the fan. You can't just step off the track. I've lost a few relatives to the mountains but my uncle was the first to solo climb denali in the winter. That's some hard core stuff.
alpinist wrote:
Climbing high altitude actually has more to do with weather windows than most know. You can have the greatest climbers like those on K2 in 86 but if the weather goes bad then the real sh*t hits the fan. You can't just step off the track. I've lost a few relatives to the mountains but my uncle was the first to solo climb denali in the winter. That's some hard core stuff.
BS. Me and Hoppy LaRue each climbed McKinley in the winter solo in 1948. Didn’t take that long. And we only had one pair of socks between us.
LoneStarXC wrote:
Former Mt. Rainier Guide wrote:
Are you actually a former Rainier guide? Is it true that if there was someone who you didn't want to continue climbing that you would take their boots away?
Say hi to Ed for me!
Yes, but it was a long time ago.......before the internet!
No, no one ever took anyone's boots away from anyone.
Former Mt. Rainier Guide wrote:
LoneStarXC wrote:
Are you actually a former Rainier guide? Is it true that if there was someone who you didn't want to continue climbing that you would take their boots away?
Say hi to Ed for me!
Yes, but it was a long time ago.......before the internet!
No, no one ever took anyone's boots away from anyone.
Do you know Ed?
Canada Girl wrote:
Excellent documentary. People who make their sherpas carry dining tables and the like should be freaking embarrassed.
Yaks and or porters carry that to base camp. Sherpas do not carry loads below Base Camp. You do know the difference between a porter and a Sherpa, right?
LoneStarXC wrote:Do you know Ed?I don't know am I supposed to? I've actually known a couple of Ed's. One was a Climbing Ranger at MRNP. The other, who I think you are referring to, was a climber that worked for RMI and then worked for some other expedition companies. I was actually there before he started but he is waaaay better than I ever was. Not bad for a boy from the flatlands of Illinois! I believe he has climbed Everest seven times and done all 14 of the 8000m peaks finally getting up Annapurna after many attempts. I've been to Annapurna but no way would I attempt it. The summit to death ratio is just too high.
When you’ve done it come back and report. Please.
It’s not as difficult as it was 30 years ago but then we all rely on those who came before us.
They have reliable internet at base camp now. Helicopters fly back and forth with obscene regularity.
And unlike your great great grandparents you drive on paved roads and use your phone to navigate and post on LRC while at stop lights.
Porters are the younger guys learning the ropes. They are all Sherpas.
John Utah wrote:
Bad Wigins wrote:
Standing at the highest land point on the Earth is a pretty arbitrary goal anyhow. Big deal. What's wrong with 7300 meters? Why should higher be better?
What do you care and what does it matter? Everything is arbitrary if you take that attitude. People do what they want.
I don't care! And it doesn't matter, besides taking a minute or two to encourage people to stop climbing a mountain just because they think it's special, because I'm sick of hearing about it. That will improve my life, if they stop.
I hope you are not a mountain climber just because you're from Utah. With very tall mountains, the sensible thing is to go around them.
Maybe knowing that Neil Armstrong went to the moon will put mountain-climbing in perspective for people. When he looked up at Earth, the whole state of Utah was nothing but a tiny speck to him.
No just that the guides pull them up half the route and all the ropes, ladders etc are put in place for them.
Half Canuck wrote:
Canada Girl wrote:
Excellent documentary. People who make their sherpas carry dining tables and the like should be freaking embarrassed.
Yaks and or porters carry that to base camp. Sherpas do not carry loads below Base Camp. You do know the difference between a porter and a Sherpa, right?
Maybe you should watch this documentary before commenting....
To true mountaineers, Mount Everest has lost it's appeal. It's basically a glorified tourist trap nowadays. Look at the lines of people going up the mountain. Where is the honor in that?
Former Mt. Rainier Guide wrote:
LoneStarXC wrote:Do you know Ed?
The other, who I think you are referring to, was a climber that worked for RMI and then worked for some other expedition companies. I was actually there before he started but he is waaaay better than I ever was. Not bad for a boy from the flatlands of Illinois! I believe he has climbed Everest seven times and done all 14 of the 8000m peaks finally getting up Annapurna after many attempts. I've been to Annapurna but no way would I attempt it. The summit to death ratio is just too high.
Yeah, Viesturs. Tell him LoneStarXC says hi. Thanks.
I haven't seen that documentary yet, but this story from a while back is also really good. It's about a group of climbers who weren't rich and cut corners with their gear etc and died on the mountain, and the sherpas who had to bring their bodies back down a year later.
https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2017/12/18/sports/everest-deaths.html
Rayo. wrote:
Bit harsh to call them a holes but get your point.
Fine, let's call them p-holes then.
Bad Wigins wrote:
John Utah wrote:
What do you care and what does it matter? Everything is arbitrary if you take that attitude. People do what they want.
I don't care! And it doesn't matter, besides taking a minute or two to encourage people to stop climbing a mountain just because they think it's special, because I'm sick of hearing about it. That will improve my life, if they stop.
I hope you are not a mountain climber just because you're from Utah. With very tall mountains, the sensible thing is to go around them.
Maybe knowing that Neil Armstrong went to the moon will put mountain-climbing in perspective for people. When he looked up at Earth, the whole state of Utah was nothing but a tiny speck to him.
Ok, I’m encouraging you to STFU to improve my life.
Also, I’m not from Utah. If you had any style you would know where my name comes from.
Canada Girl wrote:
Half Canuck wrote:
Yaks and or porters carry that to base camp. Sherpas do not carry loads below Base Camp. You do know the difference between a porter and a Sherpa, right?
Maybe you should watch this documentary before commenting....
I've been there, have you? I know what I'm talking about from experience.
Only have read “Annapurna” (1950’s). They have the same argument amongst themselves: Terray is stung to have to say, “A climber ought to be able to carry his own gear...You’re all just a bunch of damn amateurs.”
Porters are sherpas wrote:
Porters are the younger guys learning the ropes. They are all Sherpas.
But their jobs are very different.
acadia wrote:
To true mountaineers, Mount Everest has lost it's appeal. It's basically a glorified tourist trap nowadays. Look at the lines of people going up the mountain. Where is the honor in that?
Can always try the North East Ridge from Tibet, er China. It's a very different route with different objective hazards. One easy thing is you don't have to spend a week or more trekking to Base Camp. Instead you drive to Base Camp!