Cycling

What exactly is the FTP fitness test?

noninonono wrote:

for gear don't drop $1800 on a bike. seriously.

get something like a giant defy 1 with 105 not ultergra that is aluminum with a carbon fork.

need c02. shorts. helmet.

and if you are going to blow $2000 total, get a power meter and train like an athlete not a gear queer instead of upgraded crap that won't actually make you better.

Can someone recommend a power meter? they all look so expensive and I would like to minimize cost while still getting high benefits.

I mean flying ya putz, I can put a bike in the back of my GMC 1500 plenty easy enough.

Yeah France wrote:

Can someone recommend a power meter? they all look so expensive and I would like to minimize cost while still getting high benefits.

You all have been very helpful! Last question from me ... New road bikes are categorized as Endurance geometry or Performance fit/geometry. I understand the general concept that endurance is more comfortable in terms of handling and vibrations as well as siting up in a more relaxed position.

I'm leaning toward one of the endurance models because I don't see myself racing anytime soon. What (if anything) will I miss out on if I don't go with a performance fit/geometry?

A lot of the posts here have been really gear focused. I'll answer your question first, but I think the bigger question is how to get yourself into the habit of cycling regularly. I ran in high school and xc in college. I still run recreationally but started bike commuting and got into going on long rides with some more competitive guys.

As far as fit goes, don't feel the need to decide now. If you buy at a shop they'll let you take models out for a test ride. Generally speaking endurance bikes will have a more upright position, while performance bikes will have a more aggressive position. Think of it like wearing a really padded trainer vs. a racing flat only to a much greater effect. A more aggressive position pushes you forward on the pedals and makes you go much faster.

The biggest thing in buying a bike is to get help from somebody who knows what they are doing. Ideally, if you have the money, do that by buying from a local bike shop and getting a professional fitting. There are so many variables beyond just size (stem length, saddle position, bar width, q-factor, etc.) that it's important to get right if you're serious about riding a lot of hours.

The biggest challenging in transitioning to cycling is the number of hours involved. To get in a decent long ride on the weekend you really need to spend a lot of hours on a bike. Let's say you're in decent shape and want a medium distance work out. That might mean 3 hours for a sixty mile ride, plus a little for any stops. That's almost half a day on your bike.

So as others have said find a local bike club. A lot of clubs and shops have different rides at different speeds. The advantage compared to running is it's a lot more social. If you want to ride enough to stay in good shape shoot for around 150-200 miles a week. When I'm just cycling and not doing much running I might ride 5 days a week, with the following types of rides: 1 weekday after work group ride (either hills or sprints around a local loop) maybe 20-25 miles, 1 morning or afternoon solo ride - 25-30 miles, 1 trainer ride - 20-25 miles, Saturday solo ride - 30-40 miles, Sunday group ride - 40-80 miles. I'll mix intervals or climbing into the weekday rides, and occasionally I'll drive somewhere to get some serious elevation for one or both of the weekend rides.

runner turned triathlete wrote:

I think it was the second post on this thread, the guy telling you to buy clipless pedals is a stupid idea. Unless you're a hobby jogger or just one of those people that ride on the bike path/side walk rather than on the road, then I'd follow his advice. You'll have a hard time clipping in and out at first. Before you know it, you won't even need to look down to clip back in. Just becomes second nature.

FYI, clipless pedals refer to pedals that your shoes snap into, i.e. we are saying the same thing. They have a confusing name. I believe it is referring to a lack of a strap over your shoe, i.e. "clipless", even though everyone refers to the mechanism as "clipping in", but the name is meant to distinguish from pedals with a toe strap.

Practice in a doorjam to get used to clipping in and out. You will fall a few times when you stop moving and forget to clip out or clip out on one side but then lean the other way - it happens to everybody.

You will be surprised how fast the good guys go, but 2-4 years you'll kill everyone on the climbs but suck at tactics. Biking is a game and running is pure fitness. Learn early from your mistakes. Don't be the dumb runner in a bike race. Be smart use your gift... But realize quickly that 14 minute 5k runners still suck on bikes at first.

You will think you are a climber but you won't ever win on a climb.

Use your local shop. I live on Long Island and there are 4-5 shops that have serious cyclists as owners/fitters. Explain your situation and they will steer you in the right direction. Find your local club and they will tell you where the real shops are. You might save some $ by buying online, but you will have many hidden costs. Tune-ups, fittings can be costly and are usually included with new bike purchase at a shop. You can often buy models from 2-3 years ago and save 20-30% on retail. Many stores now will let you finance. I started with a $1200 aluminum Specialized Secteur and got pretty serious pretty quickly. I was able to hang with AA riders but upgraded when I started racing.

Seconded on buying from a local shop if possible, and developing a good relationship with the staff and especially the mechanics. They have the power to make your life significantly easier if they feel so inclined. In any case, make sure to learn some bike maintenance basics - for example, no one told me when I bought my first bike that if I didn't replace the chain after about 1500 miles it would start to stretch and trash the rest of the gearing components.

https://www.youtube.com/user/globalcyclingnetwork

has some good tips and such, but again there's no substitute for earning the favor of your local mechanics.

And on the point of cyclocross bikes - they work fine on the road, especially with some skinnier tires (they're pretty easy to swap) but they tend to be more expensive than a comparable road bike. If you find a great deal then go for it, but there's not much advantage compared to a road bike.

Stages is a good one. Probably one of the least expensive power meters used by a world tour team. Only drawback is left-only, but it gets the job done consistently and reliably. Lots of new ones coming out on the market though. The watteam one looks promising.

Yeah France wrote:

noninonono wrote:

for gear don't drop $1800 on a bike. seriously.

get something like a giant defy 1 with 105 not ultergra that is aluminum with a carbon fork.

need c02. shorts. helmet.

and if you are going to blow $2000 total, get a power meter and train like an athlete not a gear queer instead of upgraded crap that won't actually make you better.

Can someone recommend a power meter? they all look so expensive and I would like to minimize cost while still getting high benefits.

Watch out for rednecks and their dogs. This just happened to a guy a race against often on a road I ride on every week. Fortunately he's a sprinter and had the strength to fight the dog off. If it was a girl or a skinny guy like me, the dog would've killed the cyclist.

http://bit.ly/1UjDlLN

not for me wrote:

This thread confirms why I'll never be a cyclist. Too expensive and time consuming, and way too much gear. I like simplicity - it's one of the things I love about running. If I ever am unable to run due to injury, I'll join a gym. Cycling is too expensive and too much of a hassle.

Cyclists or non-cyclists this is hilarious! Durian Rider nailed this anyone who's done a classic can sure relate to the "Hold your Line!"

The amazing thing is with cycling if you do hold that line and trade leads your sooo fast as a group...I raced this Roubaix and we were 4:30 minutes down with 35 miles to go the breakaway had 6 our chase pack had 10 we caught all but one!

"Are you ridin or hidin?"https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DSqNVmRhlmM

Shimano 105 with alum frame is plenty good for a new cyclist.

runner turned triathlete wrote:

ctc802 wrote:

Im only 28 now, but in my "old age", I much prefer the simplicity of running to cycling. Traveling? Take a pair of sneakers and done. A bike is a pain the ass to travel with...

What 28 y/o calls running shoes sneakers?

A bike can be expensive. It is not too bad to bad to travel with unless you drive a small prius like ctc802 surely does.

Some of us travel further than a car ride, Mr Grumpy.

runner turned triathlete wrote:

I think it was the second post on this thread, the guy telling you to buy clipless pedals is a stupid idea. Unless you're a hobby jogger or just one of those people that ride on the bike path/side walk rather than on the road, then I'd follow his advice. You'll have a hard time clipping in and out at first. Before you know it, you won't even need to look down to clip back in. Just becomes second nature.

I'm that second guy, and I actually agree with you. My first year with a road bike I just used the cages (toe clips) that the bike came with. It was a good intro to a road bike. After a year I went clipless. Now I can't look back, but its probably good I didnt hop right into it.

Swimming is my favorite part of triathlons