Cycling Without Expensive Gear and Huge Hours?

If you're just looking for a workout, get a cheap ten speed and ride. If you want to get a better bike, I'd also suggest a Caad10 with 105 or maybe check out performance bike where you can get a new aluminum ride with 105 for around $1,000. You'll want to budget another $300-$500for pedals, shoes, helmet, and a few pairs of shorts.

Check out these bikes, throw some nice wheels on and you'll have a pretty good ride.

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1170034_-1_400315__400315

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1163346_-1___000000

Cycling is going to have a huge up-front cost: bike (easily $1500+ for "basic" race bike), shoes = $100+, shorts = 100+, assorted other gear (helmet, gloves, windbreaker, jersey, pump, basic tools and spare parts = $100-500+).

If you are going to ride with an intent to train and potentially race, you're looking at minimum 1500$ for a new bike that you won't "outgrow" within a year or two. As someone else mentioned, look into a Cannondale CAAD10 with Shimano 105 (or Shimano Ultegra) components. Aluminum bike + carbon fork is the way to go. If you take care of the bike like what I mentioned above, it can last you for tens-of-thousands of miles with minimal cost.

Bike racing is also expensive. Some towns/cities have bike clubs that might organize free weekly or monthly time-trials which gives you a competitive outlet with little or no expense. But to get into racing, you'll need a license $100+ and races will rarely cost less than $50.

Cycling rewards people that put in the time/miles.

If you get into it, do not listen to the guy that suggested lots of 1- and 5-minute intervals. Like running, just build up your miles.

The prices are still high.

You don't even need a 2010+ bike. Don't even need 105. Only new thing is the helmet.

I got started with less than $600 and now time trial on am expensive bike.

You can make it work.

Spin classes. You may laugh but there are very few places you can ride as hard as you can for as long as you can and not have to worry about cars or other people. You also have watts, rpms, and hr in your face so there is no kidding yourself about how hard you are working.

If you add 2 60 min indoor cycling classes to a once a week long ride and a few other rides, you will get in shape on the bike quickly.

Try "The Sufferfest"

10/10 quality workouts

Master Limper, welcome to the cycling world. I have had chronic Achilles problems and cycling doesn't cause any pain. I went to a local bike shop (LBS) and bought a barely used bike for $800.00 with everything I needed. The LBS was important for me to get "fit". The LBS guy spent about an hour with the first visit to get fit and I came back after ten days in pain and the guy spent two hours getting me right and now I ride pain free. This past week I hit 120 miles for the week which I like to average. I ride with others on Saturday mornings. What others say is true, there are guys you'd snicker at if you saw them at a road race but on a bike they can fly. Good luck and keep your eyes on the road.

I used to race but don't anymore. I still love riding and it is easier on the body than running. I bought a bike out of a niche category called gravel grinders, basically a detuned road bike. Thought I'd just ride to work but it's great for any road, dirt road, rail trail etc. Very comfortable and feels fast unless you encounter the road bike guys, but I recommend staying away from them. I take the long way home alot. My bikes a Cannondale caad something and will give me whatever quality work out I want. Cycling shorts and clip in pedals make the experience better but as someone said getting enthusiast level equipment is adequate.

A couple more bits of advice.

+1 on buying a new Bell helmet. Watch for the 40% sales on Nashbar and Performance Bike. You should be able to get a $100 helmet for $60. There's no need to spend more.

Don't buy a bike with a triple front ring. Lots of beginner road bikes have triple rings, but they're harder to keep the shifters properly adjusted. Just get a double front ring like all the good road bikes.

If you don't race, after your initial investment in the bike and gear, cycling will be about twice as expensive as running, provided that you learn the basic mechanics of adjusting derailleurs, changing tires, and so on. There are YouTube videos that explain how to do these things.

Getting a good fit is important, especially with knee problems. I had some knee twinges today and stopped on my ride to adjust my seat a quarter inch higher. You wouldn't think such a tiny adjustment would make a difference, but it does.

Thanks again to everyone for taking the time to offer advice and encouragement. Sounds like a lot of other runners have turned to cycling for an impact-free alternative to running once the running "parts" have worn out. It is great to read how it has worked for you. I am digesting all the cycling insight here, and look forward to the new challenge.

If I could offer two more pieces of advice, make sure that the bike FITS you. If the price of getting it fitted is out of the question, make sure that you test ride the bike and that your hands don't get numb or you feel too scrunched up or too stretched out. If you buy it from a shop they should care about how it fits you and adjust it as necessary. I don't care if it the coolest looking bike in the world . . . if you don't fit on it you might as well buy running shoes three sizes off.

Second, you may want splurge a little on a good pair of shorts and a saddle later down the road. Your balls will thank you.

runningart2004 wrote:

If all you want is a workout then any Walmart bike will do...until it breaks. I used to do 1-2 hour rides all the time in crap Walmart bikes. Just be prepared to buy a new one every couple of years. My last bike the rear axle literally snapped in half while I was cruising through the neighborhood.

Alan

Wow!

Finally some common sense, people talk as if spending $2K is the cheap low tech option. My first 2 bikes came from Walmart. Also, people say running has no relation to biking, that is not entirely true. Your running background will not instantly translate to success, but if you ride several days a week, assuming you were a decent runner, in a couple of months you will be able to keep up with the guys who call themselves bikers. I was a competitive master in local tris with a matter of weeks. Obviously my weakest event was the bike, but I wasn't losing too much ground. The one thing that translate very well is your ability not to give into fatigue.

Not to be a pita but if you are doing Hills you might hit speeds of 40+. I've done over 55. I would NOT trust my life to a Walmart bike. Ymmv

you never forget wrote:

Dial it up wrote:

You can do it without the expensive gear and 4 hour workouts. Especially in the first couple of years. Get a couple decent pairs of bike shorts and a couple jerseys. Get an aluminum frame and spend the extra money you saved by not buying carbon to get some decent components and wheels and you're good to go. Maybe you'll get the urge to really attempt to compete in masters races and then you can make a decision on equipment and training when that time comes. Make no mistake about it though the learning curve is very steep in cycling so your gear won't matter for a while.

Everyone gets over that learning curve as soon as they first learned to ride a bike..

Nope. You gotta learn to ride INTO the wind first so you don't bonk when coming back. You gotta learn to ride in an echelon, and a simple paceline. You gotta learn to eat every hour and drink every 15 so you don't bonk. You gotta learn NOT to cross wheels. You gotta learn about tire pressure. You gotta learn to fix a flat. You gotta learn how to climb. You gotta learn how to NOT get dropped. You gotta learn about shoes and shorts and how to use Butt'R. That stuff is the easy part.

There is a LOT MORE TO LEARN about racing.

This is all spot-on except that you can get a top-brand carbon bike with Ultegra (2nd rung from pro-level stuff) for $2500. The number one and #2 brands have them.

Also, IMO mtb racing is more like running racing in that your abilities will be rewarded more than road racing, where the best sprinters almost always win. I never have much maintenance to do on my mtb, I just wash it with water and clean the chain with a chain cleaner and then dry it off and pump up the tires and the shock/fork. And that is just once every 1-3 weeks, I train on the road bike most of the time. It is less maintenance than my car and cheaper than my car.

So, depending on where you live in the country, mtb racing is pretty cool and you may not have to drive that far. I also do ultra-endurance racing (200 miles, 12-hour, 24-hour).

The OP was talking about ROAD RIDING and YES $2000 is the low-cost option if you want to be able to ride the usual distances with other people. A Walmart bike is inadequate for any of that activity. He said he was a "competitive" runner, I take that to mean that he RACES and has GOALS in races. How would he be satisfied rolling around his neighborhood on a 38-pound Wally-World bike?

He also said that he was a master, so I am assuming he doesn't make $400 a week anymore. A bicycle for this activity is not a TOY, it is a TOOL and an adequate tool that will last for that purpose is not cheap, but $2000 is not a lot of money for something so important, something that you might be spending 10-20 hours a week on. He might not, but many do.

You don't go skiing in Earth Shoes and you don't go cycling on a Walmart bike.

I got a brand new Cervelo p2 carbon fiber bike for $2k. overkill for beginner

THERE IS NO NEED TO SPEND MORE THAN $1K PEOPLE!!!

Look at a giant defy. Look at a CAAD. People buy them new and don't use them a call out them on Craigslist. Just make sure it fits you and get it checked out if used.

Master Limper wrote:

Thanks to all for the responses. It is interesting--and, to be honest, a little disheartening--how even the low-tech/lower-cost options you all are kind enough to share are much more expensive, gear-oriented, and tactically complex than running. Clearly, that is the unavoidable reality of the sport. But it is good to learn that impactful workouts don't have to take half a day. I appreciate all the insight!

You can do very much the same kinds of workouts as running. For instance 20 min tempo (usually called threshold in cycling) is common, although 2x20 might be more common.

Then you have standard VO2 max intervals, generally 1:1 recovery. Can do things like 3-5 x10 min over/unders, 40sON/20s OFF, sprints starting in a big gear from low rpm to spinout, regular 10-15s sprints, all kinds of stuff.

Generally, in the same way as running, you can get in some solid workouts in 30-90 minutes. Is it the best way to train? Probably not, but you'd be plenty fit and more than able to race reasonable short TTs, hill climbs, and criterium type races. Stage races or long road races would be the biggest weak spot.

Some other thoughts:-Good fit is important, I'd recommend watch a few videos to get an idea of what you're looking for as well as getting fitted at your local shop. If a bike doesn't fit you might get less power, generally be uncomfortable on rides, or develop injuries- If you want to go cheap (in my opinion less than around $1000) for a bike realize it's likely to not be especially durable and will have components (shifters, deraileurs, brakes, etc.) that may be questionable at times. It depends on you personally, but you definitely get a good deal more out of shelling out the initial $1500 give or take and going with something like a CAAD 10 where you get a good alloy frame, as well as 105 componentry. - As far as components go, there are two main groups:SRAM and Shimano. There is also campangnolo but you don't find them as often. Shimano component order goes from worst to best:ClarisSoraTiagra105UltegraDura-AceGenerally claris/sora are found on cheap bikes. Tiagra is either on a cheap bike, or sometimes on a decent frame that gets into the "cheap" price range by opting for Tiagra. Generally, 105 is considered to be the first groupset that most riders feel is reliable enough to be used for racing. Ultegra is a pretty significant upgrade in terms of quality over 105. DA is very nearly identical, just a bit lighter. The bike won't be useless if you opt for one of the first three groupsets, but it won't be especially responsive either. - If you're goal is just to ride around and be fit, a WalMart $300 road bike (that fits you properly) is a perfectly fine option. The type of bike you ride really doesn't affect your ability to put power to the pedals, which of course is what makes you fitter. -If you live in a hilly/mountainous area absolutely get a 50/34 (compact) crank with 11-28 or even 11-32 cassette. If there is nothing over 3-4% you're probably fine with a 53-39 crank. - Size is a very modest hindrance on flat ground because it really alters the weight penalty. Rolling resistance from tires is not heavily increased by weight. The other main factor is wind resistance, but the difference between a big guy and a small guy is generally less than the advantage in wattage (how hard you can pedal) that a big guy gains. A 100kg guy doing 330W can come close to riding the 60kg guy doing 250W off his wheel. When the road turn up the advantage starts to go to the smaller guy. Big guys though are often more sprinter/punchy types, which means they have very good power for short climbs and may even be able to push smaller guys on short climbs. I'd say somewhere more than 3-4% in grade and over 5' in length and most bigger guys will start to struggle on the climbs. Bottom line is don't expect a big guy to be easy to beat. If you're a small runner type the big guys are likely to give you plenty of trouble unless you're really in the mountains.

you never forget wrote:

Dial it up wrote:

You can do it without the expensive gear and 4 hour workouts. Especially in the first couple of years. Get a couple decent pairs of bike shorts and a couple jerseys. Get an aluminum frame and spend the extra money you saved by not buying carbon to get some decent components and wheels and you're good to go. Maybe you'll get the urge to really attempt to compete in masters races and then you can make a decision on equipment and training when that time comes. Make no mistake about it though the learning curve is very steep in cycling so your gear won't matter for a while.

Everyone gets over that learning curve as soon as they first learned to ride a bike..

The learning curve he is referring to is not balancing on two wheels. Most can handle that. It's knowing how to ride in a paceline, shifting gears efficiently, when/how to brake before/into corners, how to descend quickly, riding in a bunch with contact, positioning, etc.

Cycling, while still a fitness sport, requires much more honing of technique to be successful in than running.

You've asked a lot of good questions.

1. Cycling is more expensive than running. Period. Running is the cheapest sport on earth. I don't really agree that cycling is "gear-focused". Some people really like geeking out about the gear, but if you get a good bike you don't have to worry too much more about it than that. Unless you want to. I know a pro who showed up to workouts in shitty weather on an $800 bike (he didn't want to damage his good one), and I've been totally happy riding and racing with my $3k road bike. I have a Specialized Tarmac and absolutely love it. Bottom line, you won't need to worry about gear if you get a decent bike and learn how to change a flat. The bike shop can do everything else for you if you want.

2. The damn bike breaks down sometimes and it's annoying as hell. People leave sharp things in the road and you get flats, you need to replace the chain sometimes, and other stuff breaks occasionally. Better the bike than your body I guess.

3. It's also a different sport. Road racing has tactics. The tactics are frustrating at first, but when you start to figure them out you realize they can make bike racing more fun than running.

4. To be a competitive cyclist you have to spend more time on the bike than you did running. That's one downside of the lower impact -- everyone else spends more time on the bike, so to get to the same relative level you will too. It's like asking if you can be a world class 10K runner off of 25mpw. The answer is no, not really. The upside is you can do beautiful rides in beautiful places -- I spent four hours yesterday riding through redwoods.

5. Compared with road racing, mountain biking can be more like running in many ways (in some types of races like XC you just go hard the whole way), but it's also a lot more technical than road racing and takes longer to learn to be good at (IMO). You need to learn to go over obstacles without crashing and if you really want to get good at it you basically need to spend time practicing difficult sections of your rides. There's also a higher likelihood of crashing but the crashes are sometimes less catastrophic than road riding. Gear matters about the same, but you won't have to deal with other people as much (no group rides and tactics like road cycling).

Cycling is a new sport, if you want to be competitive you'll have to bite the bullet and learn it.

There's more I wanted to say but I'm getting tired. Night.