Route Details
EVER-171-91 Everest Spain Spring 2017
BC 10/05 4900m
ABC 12/05 6400m
Smt 21/05 by Jornet at midnight (May 21-22)
Smt 27/05 by Jornet at 7 pm.
Acclimatization:
On 13 May from ABC to 7600m in 3-1/2 hours up and one hour down. One rest day.
On 15 May up to 8400m from ABC 6 hours up, and 3-1/2 hours down.
On 17 May went down to CBC for 3 days to rest.
First summit push:
On 20 May, Jornet left CBC at 10 pm. Reached ABC at 2:30 am in running shoes. Had a 2 hours to rest and put on
mountaineering gear. Started again at 4:30 am. Got to C1 at 6:10 am on 21 May. Reached C3 at 11:30 am. He did not
use the fixed ropes and climbed the first two ladders on the Second Step. He used the last ladder on the Second Step.
He reached the summit at midnight. Spent about 10 minutes on the summit. It was clear and not so cold. On the summit,
he saw all the headlamps coming up, but no view in the dark.
From the bottom of the Third Step, he was passing people going up. He was suffering from an upset stomach, which
gave him more trouble than the high altitude. He reached ABC at 6 am.
He started to feel better at ABC. Monica Piris, the doctor for Alpenglow Expeditions, gave him some medication. On 23
May he descended to CBC, where he recovered. On 25 May he went back to ABC.
He had carried his rucksack to C3 and left it there on the last leg to the summit. He changed into his downsuit at 7700m.
Jornet wears a Salomon boot, which allows him to wear his running shoes inside.
From CBC to summit to ABC: 26 hours ascent; round trip 33 hours.
Second summit push:
On 27 May, he left ABC at 2 am. The reason why he went quite late was the weather forecast, which had predicted high
winds for later in the day. Reached C1 at 4 am. He did not make a note for C2. C3 at 10 am. Summit at 7 pm. The
weather was windy and snowy. He spent about 10 minutes in the summit.
On the way down to C3, he picked up his rucksack and continued for a bit, but then had a blackout. The next memory he
has is crossing over toward the North Face. He did not know how he got there. It was around midnight and he had the
urgency to sleep. At about 8000m he got under a rock in the rocky part around in the Norton Couloir. He does not
remember when left the North Ridge. The only memory he has is climbing toward the right. After having slept for about
2 hours, he woke up at 2 am, his brain was working again. He looked at the GPS and crossed back toward the North
Ridge. He thinks he went across the Messner Crossing to get back to the North Ridge again.
After sleeping for about 2 hours. And on 28 May he reached ABC at 6 am.
From ABC to summit: 17 hours; round trip back to ABC 26 hours.
28/03/18 (The Himalayan Database)
Left ABC: 28 May
Left CBC: 29 May
Oxygen: Not taken, not used.
28/03/18 (The Himalayan Database)