For those that had to give up running due to injury, what sport did you move to?

Weekend outings can take all day because of travelling and there's no way you can do a work out in 1-2 hours in a gym like you can do with running. So I think climbing is more of a time committment. Also, as I said you have to be somewhat fearless especially when lead climbing.

ex-runner123 wrote:

So I can't run seriously anymore due to knee injuries. It's not really an option. I'm sure there are others out there who were in a similar situation. Just curious what sport you moved onto? I've been doing alot of low impact cardio work at the gym but it's nowhere near the satisfaction that running brings. Mainly, I miss the training and being outside. I tried swimming for awhile but find it to be depressing. Rock climbing was another option to consider but falling to the ground even if in a gym wouldn't be good for the knees. Alot of ex runners post about going into lifting weights to build up some muscle but I'm not into that. Options anyone?

Cycling. Had 9 surgeries. 4 on the knees. Currently have need for acl repair. I ride. Get the right road set-up and ride

How should climbers train? I've raed something that said that climbing is a sprinter's sport and that you don't need to do endurance. It seemed to suggest that if you're a really strong boulderer, then you'll do alright on longer stuff. It seemed to say that doing laps on easy routes (I'm thinking (5.6-5.9) isn't helpful.

Most guys that get enthused quickly about climbing are fast twitch boulderers with very strong fingers. A lot of these guys can be bouldering V8/9 in a year or two, no problem. They often hang at the gym on a daily basis, but the actual volume of climbing they do is very low. Essentially they are "climbing sprinters".Lead climbing, on the other hand is a stamina/endurance sport, usually requiring a large base to perform at a high level, just like running. With this in mind, I train the wet half of the year primarily by traversing and doing laps. Believe me, two or three hours of traversing is PLENTY of climbing, more than even the best bouldering boys do in a week. Basically, I learned how to do this efficiently, without injury, and when I go to the crags with the iron fingered fast twitchers, they are done after one or two goes at a hard project whereas I am just getting going.For 5.13+ shape, most of my volume is 5.8 to 10+, with some bouldering and other work to develop power. In the outdoor season, I start at 5.11/12 and work up to the harder stuff. I get ridiculously pumped the first month or two, but after that my base allows me to keep improving. I've gone an entire season climbing no harder than 12a (due to heat), then sent a 12d and 13d project both within six weeks wen conditions were prime.Endurance and technique is king, just like with running. Also, I take very few falls, work most of my routes on TR, sometimes sending hard projects without taking a single lead fall on it. This is good for your head if you are a tech driven endurance climber. Fast twitchers, not so much.

how to train wrote:

How should climbers train? I've raed something that said that climbing is a sprinter's sport and that you don't need to do endurance. It seemed to suggest that if you're a really strong boulderer, then you'll do alright on longer stuff. It seemed to say that doing laps on easy routes (I'm thinking (5.6-5.9) isn't helpful.

Join the club. Knee injury led to total knee replacement, no more running. Really miss running but had to migrate to something, which turned out to be biking. Really enjoy it but more expensive and time consuming. Time doesn't matter much as I am retired so I ride at least 2 hours or more daily. Hard to ride in winter weather but I use the down time to rest my old body a bit, do a little bit of lifting. If you are lucky enough, you will meet some good people biking, much like runners. Gets me outside and keeps me in shape, I plan to make them keep paying me my pension check as long as I can. Good luck.

OFG - From what I read, cycling can be hard on the knees although nowhere near as with running. Mostly climbing uphill can put stress on the knees from what I understand. Anyway, isn't the life span of a knee or partial replacement like 10+ years? I know you can't run on knee replacements but is cycling ok? My knee problems aren't bad yet so I'm trying to choose my sports wisely so I can avoid that path.

OFG - From what I read, cycling can be hard on the knees although nowhere near as with running. Mostly climbing uphill can put stress on the knees from what I understand. Anyway, isn't the life span of a knee or partial replacement like 10+ years? I know you can't run on knee replacements but is cycling ok? My knee problems aren't bad yet so I'm trying to choose my sports wisely so I can avoid that path.

You're really right about how the guys who get really into it at first are boulderers with strong fingers. I'm trying to do more lead climbing now because my fingers are too weak for the gym's hard bouldering problems. I'll work on traversing and laps. We have an autobelay, which I think will be good for laps.

Not a sport, but I got into the weight lifting lifestyle. The combination of weight training + a clean diet has given me a much better physique than I had when I was a runner. I still run sometimes, but not habitually, and I can't pursue it aggressively anymore thanks to arthritis in my patellofemoral joint.

All of you who had knee injuries - did you get them diagnosed by a good doc? Why not keep running?

Competitive drinking is in my future if I can't run anymore.

Ex Runner My ortho Doctor and the PT said go ahead and ride, even after I explained that my riding wasn't cruising around on a bike and I used clip in pedals, etc. They said riding will help build up the muscles around the knee and help support it. I was also told the replacement is good for 15-20 years.

I was 57 when I had the surgery and now 63, been riding since. I have to say that I don't experience any pain when riding or after riding and that my knee feels much stronger and stable than previously. I think that staying fit and keeping my weight down thru riding (I'm about 6' and 163 lbs) is a big plus. Have to see what happens with my replacement knee up the road but both the Doctor and PT feel that it is worth it.

How about rowing or kayaking? You see the kayaking in the Olympics? That looks like a hoot.

My friend who ran for the army team doesn't run anymore, but loves climbing.

because when it's so painful you can barely stand it for most of your waking hours then it keeps you awake at night for over a year it's pretty much a signal not to run on it.

Ron Daws, 1968 U.S. Olympic marathoner, turned to cross-country skiing in his later years. He loved it, and strongly recommended it. He told me that, although it takes a while to develop good technique, the great thing about cross-country skiing is that you can work the hell out of your body without getting injured. (I never took him up on his recommendation, however, and eventually returned to running. But it would probably be my choice for an aerobic substitute.)

Cycling I suppose.

posting on 10 year old threads is pretty easy on the knees too

Ten years later, still walking but in running races--a lot slower (my marathon times are now in the ballpark of my youthful 50km times), but a) I don't have to worry about judges, and b) there's generally a bunch of five-hour-plus "runners" to compete with. Placing in my age group against runners is fun.

And I coach throwers, so I've gone back to training/competing in the throws. Lotsa throwers in my age group and it's a blast to get in the circle/runway and mix it up.

I've also gotten back into archery, which was my very first "serious" sport. Not great for actually building fitness, but it still feels great to make an excellent shot.

Rollerblading & powerhiking