My program sounds a bit different. I think I had less coursework - I was done with classes after 3 semesters, with only one class during my third semester. I also never spent anything close to 30 hours a week - more like 10, with the obvious exception of preparing for exams and presentations. I didn't really have homework for any of my classes.
I had a 2 semester TA requirement - I taught a lab class, which required only 5 hours a week for most of the semester. Each TA was in charge of one experiment over the course of the semester, during which time the commitment rose to about 25-30 hours per week (for 2-3 weeks), and then about 30-35 hours of grading when they turned in their reports.
In terms of funding - in my lab, half of the grad students are funded by outside training grants, the other half are paid through grants that the PI has. You should check into what types of grants your school offers, as well as applying for stuff like NSF. In my experience, this also opens up labs to you that might not otherwise want to take a student.
Obviously different programs have different requirements. One thing that my undergrad adviser told me was to look for the the place that required you to jump through the fewest hoops. I thought that was good advice - not to say that you won't get anything out of your classes, and I actually discovered that I really enjoy teaching, but keep in mind that you're there to do research.
Hey Grad Student - A paper during your rotation? Really? I've only ever even heard of one person doing that, and he got incredibly lucky. How long are your rotations?